Kitsons Restaurant

Given that Kitson's has been going since 2007 and that it's the only place in Abingdon offering fine dining, I'm surprised it took me three years to hear about it. It's a bit of a find. Number one: it's hidden away above a cafe off Abingdon's High Street, and climbing its plushly carpeted stairs feels like entering a posh members' club. Once in, it's a surprise to find an open space so large. With its high ceiling, beautifully restored quirky 14th century features (stone fireplace, plenty of exposed beams), warm mediterranean colours, fresh flowers and comfy leather chairs, the place feels - as they say - reassuringly expensive.

Number two: the food is great. Passing plates look like art, and when your own dishes arrive, it's clear how much effort has gone into every detail. Soft glazed rolls, clearly home-made, were dangerously filling and still warm; assiette of smoked fish was the star of the table, packed with flavour, with roe (some tasting as if it had been infused with dill, presumably using some Heston Blumenthal-style voodoo), smoked salmon slivers and a tiny perfect fish scotch egg. The tart marinated beetroot and rich goat's cheese combo was given a solid thumbs up; duck salad was sizeable and satisfying; scallops were perfectly cooked and presented prettily on their shells, with the heavy pea puree and black pudding business one often gets with scallops replaced by a lighter cress, spinach and chorizo combination. I could eat these all day. As for the mains: though the emphasis is (admirably and fashionably) on 'simple, high quality English food' with 'local ingredients from local suppliers', there's undoubtedly a subtle hint of central European here too, conveyed via the aromatic, punchy flavours, rich, creamy sauces and strong, well-cooked meats. And the portion sizes. I was hungry when I arrived, but by the time I was watching my companion make his way through a salted caramel that looked much like a 6-inch toffee slab I was wishing I'd given the rolls a miss in order to be able to finish my delicious, tender duck breast.

Always a decent indicator of whether a place is worth its salt, the wine list (supplied by Oxford Wine Company) is good, with knowledgeable and informative notes and a good range of new and old world classics plus some more adventurous numbers. There are some good 'sweeties' on the dessert list too if you can't manage a pudding. Our South African chenin blanc delivered perfectly on its promise of crispness and fruit, cutting through our rich meats where a (probably more appropriate, match-wise) heavy red might have proved too much.

Cutting to the chase: Kitson's isn't cheap - but then why would you expect it to be?! Head chef, Hristo, formerly from fashionable foodies' palace the Crazy Bear (Stadhampton), has clearly set the bar high - and why not. On the a la carte menu, starters weigh in at £5-£8, desserts are all around the £6 mark and mains from £12-£23 (most hovering at £15/£16). The cheapest way to eat there would be to go for their weekday set menu - £12.95 for two courses or £14.95 for three. Dishes are more basic, but based on what I've seen so far, I imagine the deal is good value. Epic Sunday lunches are on offer too.

Parking can be a bit tricky in Abingdon, but busing's easy, with the X13/X3 (Oxford Bus Company - check their website for details) stopping pretty much outside, which is handy if you fancy a drink or two. Highly recommended.

Su Jordan (DI Staff), 03/02/10

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