Malmaison

Madeleine Herbert October 9, 2017

My evening at Malmaison started off in a promising manner. On arriving in the basement restaurant of the prison-turned-glamorous-hotel, my guest and I were greeted by every member of staff that we passed, and shown to our table across the velvet-clad room. The general ambiance was excitingly plush, and we looked forward to the meal ahead. Bread with oil and vinegar and a bowl of beautiful multi-coloured olives arrived quickly and were simple and delightful. Unfortunately, the meal went steadily downhill from there.

Having stated in my booking request that I follow a vegan diet, I was surprised when the waiter expressed extreme incredulity in the premise. 'No fish?! No beef?!' he cried. 'Oh dear,' I thought. I was informed (after he had come to terms with the idea of my not eating delicious steak) that the mushroom burger on the menu would suit my requirements. My guest ordered the tomato torteloni and a side of spinach. For a starter we had a beetroot salad made to look like beef carpaccio. It was light and tasty, and I could avoid the cheesy sauce poured all over it.

My meal came in a brioche bun (not vegan) with tartare sauce (not vegan). I sent it back and he said he'd check with the chef that these elements were vegan. In the meantime, we were left with the spinach, which I tried. It was so salty it hurt my mouth, and the sensation remained for the next couple of days. My guest agreed; it was objectively inedible. The waiter came back with the same mushroom burger in some plain white toast. He told me he had asked the chef and it was now a vegan meal. It was surprising, then, to find when I bit into it that the burger tasted strongly of cheese and had the stringy consistency of melted cheese; it was full of cheese. I flagged down a different waiter who finally showed some sign of comprehension and alarm. All the food on the table was whisked away and we started again.

The risotto they brought me ten minutes later was fine, and my guest did enjoy her pasta, which was plain but well made. Incidentally, the spinach was again inedible, so that wasn't just a slip-up.

They didn't charge a service charge and our bottle of wine was removed from the bill, and the meal came to £52.80. The waiter gave us a little guided tour of the hotel and former prison rooms which was sweet but sadly too little too late.

I understand that my veganism can be hard to cater for; that isn't the part of the experience which is worrying. The problem was that the waiter continually pretended he'd understood or that he knew what he was talking about and then demonstrated that he hadn't, and neither had the chef. They did nothing to make me trust that they had any knowledge or competence in any area of their service, not just in serving vegans. I think they hoped that I wouldn't notice every time they brought me food that didn't meet the dietary requirements I had requested. Especially for such an expensive meal, it's really not ok. I'm afraid I can't recommend this restaurant for anyone, least of all for anyone with any special diet requests.

Su Jordan June 23, 2008

Malmaison is, quite simply, one of the best places to eat in Oxford. With a menu consisting mainly of modern takes on traditional French dishes, and prioritising sustainably sourced and many local ingredients, its dishes exhibit all the inventiveness, skill and flair that you could want from a posh food joint, but at prices that won't empty your bank account.

At £8.00 a pop for the starter - a handful of shavings from the leg of Jamón ibérico “jabu gran reserve” (carved by the bar), and a couple of chunks of melon - it may sound like I'm contradicting myself already. However, the menu states that 'iberico hams are considered to be the finest in the world (cured for a minimum of 2 years and reared from free range pigs that feed on acorns, giving the distinctive flavour)', and I couldn't disagree. It was delicious. Eaten with the melon, it was even more delicious than it is really possible to describe with decency. Sharing this between two sufficed for a small taster, particularly given the gratis bread and superbly fruity Sicilian extra virgin olive oil (D.O.P. Val di Mazara) we'd been scooping up whilst our ham was carved. Our mains were adventurous in comparison to the stream of giant burger towers emerging from the busy kitchen (they looked fantastic): New Forest Barramundi with white asaparagus 'Barigould' (traditionally a French method of rendering artichokes with onions and lardons) - £12.95 - and fillet of veal “saltimbocca” with vendangeurs de Bourgogne potato - £18.95. Before you cry out 'torturer!' or 'evil Australian fish importer!', let me state that the Barramundi are farmed ecologically and sustainably in Hampshire, and that the veal - again, with the potatoes, a new take on a trad. French dish - was British (something we ascertained before ordering). Why does that make it ok? Well, if you drink milk, you should logically and ethically eat veal, as baby calves are the inevitable byproduct of the UK milk industry. If you don't eat them, they will be exported by UK farmers to the European market, where veal is more popular and welfare standards aren't as exacting as in the UK (and where 'crating' still happens). Not only that, but veal is delicious, especially when tender to a tee and wrapped in bacon - as it was here. With sides (all at £2.95) of courgette Provençale and a perfectly balanced, non-overpowering and tomato onion salad (four types of tomatoes!), this was more than enough - literally. Though we did find space to fit a bottle of Chapel Down Bacchus (dry Sauvignon Blanc-esque white from Kent, £21.00) in there somewhere. Highly recommended, and a good aperitif as well as compliment to the fish dish.

Finally - as we couldn't possibly eat as much as we wanted to - we settled on desserts (all at £5.95) number 1) orange and pistachio gateaux and number 2) mango soup with coconut icecream and cinnamon crumble. Number 1) was light and spongy, not as lurid in colour or flavour terms as its name suggested, and number 2) was quite honestly the most delicious dessert I have ever put into my face. I can't be much more favourable about this place other than to tell you that there were also some extremely tasty-looking and original cocktails and dessert wines on offer (though drinking them might push you onto the edge of bank-breaking). Halfway through the meal I also had the delightful experience of realising that the rustically low doors off the main room were not old cellar doors but old cell doors, which was fun. Service was expert: the well-dressed staff were friendly, speedy and unobtrusive. A 10% service charge is added onto your bill as standard, and this is well deserved. My only gripe was that their tables for two are definitely too small for glassware, cutlery, crockery and the very large menus, but if that's the only negative thing I can say, I think you get the picture.

Average food, appalling service, massively overpriced. Nothing else needs to be said.

Dave 14 Oct 2011

It had been an age since I’d visited Malmaison, so when invited to lunch with a friend recently, I was looking forward to seeing how they’re getting on. I’m pleased to report that the high standards I remembered fondly are being maintained, and that the food is still superb. I had the Valley Smoke House smoked salmon to start with, which arrived on an enormous plate with mounds of excellent quality smoked salmon, accompanying capers, scrambled egg and a great little chive dip on the side. The bread was nothing special, but quite frankly, with portion sizes like that, you won’t need it. My friend ordered the potted Cornish crab and said it was excellent. For the main event we both ordered the smoked haddock with a poached egg. The fish was cooked perfectly, as was the egg and I thoroughly enjoyed every mouthful. My friend ordered the runner beans and shallots to accompany his dish, which were good, if a little tough, being not quite in season any more. My only gripe would be that this particular dish doesn’t come with any form of potato, or carbs of any kind.

Having had such a nice experience at lunch I chose Malmaison for an recent evening meal with my partner. The asparagus and poached duck egg I had to start was just fantastic and the salty shards of pancetta that accompanied it really completed each mouthful perfectly. My partner opted for the smoked salmon: see above! I made a bad choice for our bottle of white and didn’t really enjoy the American Viognier as much as I think I would have enjoyed a more traditional bottle. However, a sublime Syrah with our main course more than mollified me! I thought the wine was priced very decently and the extensive and interesting list is enough to keep you busy for quite some time. The service of a Sommelier was offered, which I always appreciate.

We both ordered steak frites for our main course and I was rather surprised (and a little concerned) to see that the chef had done a very thorough job with his tenderising mallet! I needn’t have worried though, as even though rather flat, my steak was as bloody as I’d requested it, it was perfectly seasoned, and was the kind of piece of meat that encourages small groans of pleasure whilst eating it.

I shouldn’t end on a negative but a note of caution on their cocktail up-sell when they offer you the menu: I foolishly went for the raspberry martini which was recommended and not only was it (for my tastes) revoltingly sweet, it also came in on our bill at £9! My partner, being far more sensible opted for a G&T and said it was very good and far more reasonably priced. You have been warned!

Dr Mukti 30 Aug 2010

Good looking restaurant at a great location in the city centre of Oxford. Enough options for people who prefer meat/fish dishes. Not that much choice for vegetarians/vegans. Price/quality is poor. The food was average (taste wise) which isn't good enough for the price you pay. Service was good.

cj 24 Aug 2010

We have recently eaten with their offer (£29 dinner for two with wine and coffee) and we were very disappointed.

The service was incredibly slow and varied between enthusiastic and indifferent. The food was average - the starters were good but the main courses quite poor. Not enough food on the plate (and we don't count a plate of lettuce leaves with a few peas as a main course) - there was significantly more food in the starters than the main courses. We added more to the £29 bill with side dishes and desserts. Desserts were lovely, but we had to have them because we hadn't eaten much at that stage.

When the bill came we were overcharged, and there was a fixed service charge for two! We were not even offered the coffee with the deal (by the time we realised we were already on our way home) and felt we should have been reminded.

When we asked for our coats, the lady said 'no' (we assumed she was joking, but we weren't very impressed) and another member of staff had to get them.

All in all, a disappointing evening.

CT 22 Apr 2009

Our first visit to Malmaison's restaurant was a mixed bag.

The food was very good and the staff were very attentive. The wines were good but as someone noted earlier the list is a little padded though I could see no holes in it and everyone’s taste should be catered for. As for the food; I tried the wild mushroom risotto and my partner tried the salmon fishcake, we also ordered a side of green beans and shallots. The fishcake was tender and well seasoned. I enjoyed the risotto but there was a little too much salt. For dessert we ordered the chocolate and orange tart and a crème brulée. The tart was very heavy and I found the portion size a little much. The crème brulée was very smooth and had delightful notes of vanilla and coffee which did not overpower the dish. Overall the food was good but not exceptional and I have had better for the price on several occasions.

Likes
- Attentive service
- Reasonably comprehensive wine list
- Good quality food

Dislikes
- Bright lighting leaves defects in the decor starkly exposed and detracts from the mood
- The tables are so close you have very little privacy
- The food does not measure up to its price

Adam 9 Feb 2009

We have stayed there many times since this hotel opened and it is absolutely fantastic- staff friendly and helpful at all times, food delicious and rooms stunning.

Jane Graham 20 Jul 2008

Not having seen the inside of Oxford Prison for 25 years, I was keen to check in and see what has been made of it.

Our room occupied two cells, opening onto the original landings, with slopping out now conducted in an adjoining luxury bathroom.

A wonderful cocktail bar occupies the old visiting room and there's an excellent brasserie in the basement which isn't that expensive regardless of what other posters think.

It's possibly the best hotel I've ever stayed in, and that includes most of Spain's luxury paradors. As with other Malmaisons, their attention to detail gets it right every time.

Even if you weren't here in its days as a nick (I wasn't actually an inmate) it's still THE place to stay in Oxford.

Uncle Gareth 30 Mar 2008

Having dined today I can say that the food was excellent, portions generous and the service was also very attentive. Also, I don't think that between £12-£14 for a main course, in relation to food/service and surroundings, is an exorbitant price to pay. Indeed, I have eaten in 'gastropubs' where service and food were inferior, but the bill was similar. In any event, the place was heaving, which for a lunch-time on a Monday must also be indicative of reasonable quality (especially as most of the surrounding restaurants were virtually empty). So, if you want a really good meal, unhurried service and slightly quirky surroundings, smack in the centre of Oxford, the Malmaison should be at the top of your list.

Josh 10 Dec 2007

friendly service, bland and bad food. massively overpriced and so lacking in imagination. their large glasses of wine are everyone elses small glass, yet still expensive and bad. vegetarian menu was so poor. very little choice and what was available lacked flavour, i've had better from a jar for £1.50.

needless to say, but we didn't stay for desert.

if you want to say you've eaten in a prison then go here. if you want a good meal out go elsewhere.

blondie 30 Apr 2007

Menu had a sufficiently wide variety to suit most appetites and the food was well prepared, not terribly adventurous, but with due attention to the ingredients. Much better than average for Oxford.

The wine list has a great selection of single glass wines and has an excellent variety of choices, although the bulk of choices are more second tier wines, although this probably reflects the likely budget of most diners. Some very good selections in the french regional and New World sections.

Service was good despite the fact that the restaurant looked like it was at capacity. Attentive but not intrusive.

The restaurant decor reflects the original building but they should have used more soft material in the restaurant itself since the noise level rises unduly with only hard surfaces. Decor is pleasant and the tables only a little too close.

Recommended.

Anon 29 Apr 2007

It is an interesting building and the decor is tasteful. However, the food was bland, unimaginative and overpriced. The waiter disagreed that the food was poor as he had tried it in the kitchen and thought it was fine!

A request to remove the service charge that had been added to the bill was reluctantly completed after a sarcastic and angry outburst from a different staff member.

The staff are unhappy and the food was dreadful which I suspect is evidence of a troubled organisation. It desperately needs to change if it is to survive.

Top Dolly 4 Mar 2007

I'd like to have seen a little more food on the plate, and a little less creative writing in the menu. Adding on two glasses of wine and a coffee to the Christmas set meal, we didn't get change from a fifty pound note. (Adding on a fixed service charge for a group of 5 is outrageous.)

Overall opinion? Slightly pretentious and a bit over-priced. I won't be going back.

Bagpuss 21 Dec 2006

Malmaison, the hotel chain with a penchant for the unusual and the quirky, has got to be the best new-ish arrival in Oxford this year .in the hands of any other chain, the re-development of the old Oxford prison could have been expected to be a bit of a disaster but their handling of what must have a very difficult project cannot be faulted .

The hotel is sleek, modern and yet opulent and a visit to its public areas, such as the bar and the wonderful "visitor's room" is always a pleasure . The restaurant has also achieved the rare combination of style and substance, proving that both can be achieved in one very neat and attractive package. The "moody" low lighting lends itself to intimate "dinners a deux," but is still comfortable for business or single customers.

The menu is not overly complicated (a common fault in most modern restaurants), but well balanced and a real treat for the taste buds. I visited on 3 occasions and each time everything was perfect, from crab and chilli linguine, to the fabulous hamburger (putting to shame other castle located competitors), perfect black sea-bream and artichoke barigoule ...

As for the "steak tartare" ....mmmmmmmm. Absolute perfection. Being French I miss this dish most of all, as British people seem quite squeamish about this underrated and often unappreciated specialty, and it is virtually impossible to find in England. I have to say that Malmaison has surpassed most French versions however. The seasoning was divine, and one could taste the quality of the steak as it had not been minced beyond all recognition but chopped artfully.

Desserts were fab, and the service on all 3 occasions could not be faulted in any way, efficient and helpful yet friendly. All in all a great success and I wish them all the best. If the standards remain this high, I might just have to go there a lot more regularly .... Long live Malmaison...
...

PAMPLEMOUSSE 24 Aug 2006

Daily Info

Cuisine:

Share this venue

Reviews

Share this venue