At five centuries old, Dorchester-on-Thames’ George Hotel boasts the accolade of being one of the oldest coaching inns in the UK. Its recent acquisition by the Coaching Inn Group has seen some glossy new mod cons fitted to this 15th century idyll, so Daily Info stopped by for a night to test the waters.
Upon our arrival in the hotel’s ample and free car park, it’s pleasing to see how much of the hotel’s original architecture has been retained - you get the sense of comfort that a weary Tudor traveller may have felt hitching up their horse for the night. This continues in the interior, where exposed beams and a wide red brick fireplace imbue the place with a real convivial warmth. The bar, small but well-stocked, is upholstered with leather and velvet armchairs that are just the right side of chintz, an ideal spot for a pint to wind down the day.
Dorchester-on-Thames itself, about 20 minutes drive from Oxford City Centre, is a bucolic retreat from the bustle of the city (although if you don’t have access to a car and aren’t particularly keen on a scenic cycle, transport routes are harder to come by). It’s an ideal spot for a bracing stroll down a country footpath, or a meditative visit to Dorchester Abbey (c.625 AD). A particular highlight is the view of the Thames from the bridge, which we were lucky to catch with sunset diffusing through the trees before we made our way back to reception.
And then we got our room key. I wasn’t aware going into this visit that each suite in the George is themed, so when the very lovely receptionist told us that we would be staying in the James Bond suite, I have to admit that threw me a bit. Each room’s theme is designed to pay homage to Oxfordshire icons, from pop culture (‘The Midsomer Murders Room’, ‘The Agatha Christie Room’) to the natural world (‘The Red Kite Room’). Bond was chosen both for the nearby Aston Martin Museum - closed that Sunday, much to our dismay - and because Bond author Ian Fleming was an erstwhile resident of the South Oxfordshire town of Ipsden, in what the potted biography framed on the wall of our room referred to as a ‘modest mansion’.
Of course, since each room’s theme differs, I’m only able to give you a partial perspective, but I think it’s a safe assumption that of all the suites ours was probably the most tonally dissonant with the rest of the hotel’s aesthetic. The bones of the room itself are lovely - airy, spacious, and with a picturesque view of Dorchester Abbey directly opposite the building. Our furnishings were a tasteful muted blue with white brocade patterning, the seats plush and the cushions plump - though the mattress on our double-bed was a little too stiff for both our tastes. The coffee and tea selection (including a Nespresso machine and pods) had a range of flavours and came with a generous assortment of biscuits and sweets. The suite was equipped with both Wifi and a smart TV, and the sleek grey tiled ensuite offered crisp towels, waffle robes and a delightful set of organic bath products, which can also be purchased at the reception desk if you’re so inclined. There was also a rubber duck on the bath rest, which in my book is an automatic bonus point.
However, it’s still difficult to ignore the smoulder of at least five different incarnations of 007 looming from each wall as you drift off to slumber. Granted, myfriend and I are not the target demographic for Britain’s most beloved secret agent/sex pest, and we were still able to wring quite a bit of fun out of the sheer campy kitschness of it all (particularly an oversized martini glass occupying the mantlepiece). But there’s a charming room here under all these spy trappings, and the reliance on Bond comes off as a bit of a license to overkill, suggesting a lack of confidence in the room to speak for itself, which it really is capable of doing. One also wonders how the George squares its elegant furnishings with accommodating younger guests - children are welcome at the hotel, but if our setup is anything to go by, guardians might have to keep an eye on the more breakable objects in their suite.
We had dinner in the hotel restaurant, which had a very Wind in the Willows feel to its decor, well-lit and whimsically decorated with rowing oars, wooden ducks and straw boater hats. The menu is extensive and the ingredients locally sourced, offering a variety of vegan and gluten free options. I ordered the confit duck hash, which was well-seasoned but a little dry, and the sea bass, which more than made up for it; delectably crispy skin, beetroot potatoes for a subtle earthiness, and a mussel cream that tied the whole thing together sumptuously. We both finished with a Black Forest Gateau sundae which, while tasty, was also on the dry side with its sponge and felt a bit insubstantial for its concept.
Breakfast the following morning ranged from simple classics like the sausag sandwich and the full English to eggs Benedict, Florentine and Royale, as well as toast and preserves served alongside. The hollandaise sauce on my eggs Benedict was perfectly tangy (though the egg was a little less runny than I’d prefer). We also requested toast which never arrived, but given that things were understaffed during our visit, we can safely chalk that up to circumstance; in the face of that logistical difficulty, every staff member we encountered was polite, courteous and conscientious.
500 years on from its inception, the George remains a great spot for weary travellers to hang their hat for the night. I’m still not entirely sold on the notion of themed suites, which feels a tad gimmicky, and I think the space has more than enough going for it to stand on its own without having to fall back on famous properties. That being said, the Coaching Inn Group’s revamped additions have, for the most part, given it an extra sense of luxury that distinguishes it from your standard hotel stay - the next time you feel like a jaunt upriver, be sure to give the George a visit.
