Reviewed
Oct 2002

The first impression is that it's all very clean and functional: A black and white tiled theme is in evidence (designed perhaps to evoke freshness by association with a well-scrubbed fishmonger's shop) with dinner-style booths. This leads on to a more traditional restaurant layout, on the Turl St side, which is echoed upstairs.

The young staff quickly showed themselves to be friendly, knowledgeable and attentive without being intrusive. This is good. Many questions were asked about the finer details of certain dishes, their size (obviously an important consideration) and general appeal. All were answered helpfully and without making us feel too inquisitive. The menus are printed anew each day, to emphasise that the produce is all new and ever changing. And we meandered in agonies of indecision for a considerable time. In addition to extensive lists of starters and main courses such as you might expect, there are also the chef's specials, the catches of the day, and an amazing array of shellfish options. The range of dishes is really quite impressive, with both experimental and traditional appetites catered for.

Eventually we chose starters of tempura squid, with satay and miso sauces and baked risotto, with mozzarella and caponata. The squid was tender, by squid standards and the sauces just the right textures. The very generous Risotto came with an interestingly textured exterior, cheese melted within (which elicited a childlike 'oooh' from both parties after it was revealed) and a rather nice vegetable and raisin sauce/base.

Whilst we had entertained the idea of ordering about five dishes for the main course, ('Just to have a small taste of each', of course) an eventual choice was made of seabass fillet, with butternut squash, cauliflower cream, piquillo peppers and watercress, and pan-seared marlin, with honey-glazed parsnips. The seabass was soft and fell off the bone in exactly the pleasing manner that it should, with the sauce not too rich and unnecessarily creamy (this praise indeed, coming as it did from a somewhat fussy eater, who is not particularly enamoured with all things overly dairy). The marlin was substantial and full-flavoured. Side dishes of chips and seasonal vegetables also met with our approval, (especially the very tasty parsnips) although we were barely able to scratch their surface.

We were agreeably stuffed by this stage, and were going to inspect the dessert menu merely for curiosity's sake. One look, though and we were destined to have to loosen our belts: a shared crème brulée lured us in, which was as faultless as the rest, prepared as it was with just the enough of a spiced hint to keep us wishing we had ordered one each.

With a couple of glasses of splendid Chablis and a small liqueur, the bill came to just under £30 a head. You could easily have a very nice and slightly less indulgent meal for somewhat less, or you could get among the lobster and champagne and spend substantially more. Either way, to judge by satisfied murmurings from nearby tables, you should expect excellent value for money.

EB & IT

And a year ago....

Oxford's third major fish restaurant recently opened in Turl Street, at the corner with Ship Street. Livebait offers a sophisticated menu, with daily specials, as well as traditional fish and chips in batter with mushy peas (or 'pea purée' in twenty-first century menu-speak). It is worth noting that apart from a warm goat's cheese salad everything on the menu here is fish of one kind or another, so make sure your companions are all happy with that if you visit Livebait.

The character of the building means that there are effectively three different parts to the restaurant. On the ground floor there is a cocktail bar, and the main restaurant is upstairs - rather dark, my companion thought, and functionally if stylishly furnished. We had what seemed to us the best table, by the window, overlooking the gardens of Jesus College. Our favourite part, which we only discovered at the end of the meal is a club-like basement, with deep sofas and armchairs, as well as one or two tables where a meal can be eaten, lying on a sofa Roman-Style - something which can be done nowhere else in Oxford. It is an excellent place for coffee and or dessert, and also a place where smokers can dine.

As for the food, it falls mainly into three categories: a large selection of shellfish; basic fish pan-fried or char-grilled with sauces; and made-up dishes with a Middle Eastern flavour. We suspect the latter are the most successful, and certainly the most distinctive to Live Bait. My Salmon Teriyaki (marinated in a sauce) on deep fried egg-plant (aubergine) with wok-seared greens, was delicious (£11.25); my companion's half lobster (£14), served cold with salad, fell a little short of expectations.

We had been relatively adventurous with our starters. My crab cakes (£6.50) came with a fiery coriander, lime and avocado salsa. They actually needed it, being rather dull in themselves, but the salsa was very good. The other starter, seared scallops, black pudding, and apple and ginger purée (£7.80) was enjoyable. These give some idea, perhaps, of the kind of inventive cooking the Livebait chefs enjoy: try the blackened swordfish with crispy raisins, tomato & shallot relish. Vegetables are extra, at £1.95. We tried the mash, which was - well - mash, and the chips, which are, of course a matter of taste. I like mine thick and chewy, but these, being thin and crisp, suited my companion.

The idea of dessert was a little overwhelming, even when lying on the sofas in the basement, but there was a dessert menu with about half a dozen delicious sounding things, and the coffee was good. There is a good selection of wines at reasonable prices, and a cocktail menu (cocktails costing £5.50 apiece). They will also make up other cocktails, so it is worth asking if the one you want is not on the menu.

J & J Rose. Aug 2001