Reviewed
'96

Oxford boasts enough Indian, Chinese and Thai restaurants to last even the most dedicated Asian food-lover for months. But if you want to get away from the Meat Vindaloos and Chicken Chop Sueys and you've got just a little bit more cash to spend than on the average Saturday night, Munchy Munchy could be a good choice. Its cuisine is 'Padang' style, which, according to the menu, comes from a small region in Sumatra. Geography not being my strongest point, my partner drew Asia on a napkin for me with his fork, and explained that India hangs down from Russia in a kind of triangle and Sumatra is sort of above it and to the right.

The decor is simple, with wooden tables and chairs and plenty of light and air; the staff were dressed casually and chatted amicably throughout the meal, and the service was brisk and efficient. I couldn't honestly recommend it for that candle-lit seduction supper which you've been planning for years and have finally persuaded your dream partner to share with you, but it's a great place to take your parents or a group of friends. Watch out though - there's a 10% service charge for reservations and for parties of five or more.

Now for the important bit - the food tasted wonderful! There were no starters, so we launched straight into wine and the main course. The wine was easy to choose, as the house red, a Baron Georges vin de table, was pleasant, easy to drink and good value at about  £7.50 a bottle. The main courses, however, all looked mouth-watering as they swept past to be served at other tables, while the exotic ingredients listed on the menu added to my confusion. I had great difficulty choosing between the duck in plum sauce, the chicken kebabs with peanut dip, or the 'spicy lamb dish with mace, nutmeg, cardamom, shredded coconut and fresh pineapple puree'. After much deliberation and consultations with our waitress, I decided on the lamb, at  £5.85, and didn't regret it. It wasn't quite like anything I'd had before, and combined lots of subtle flavours in a wonderfully creamy, fruity sauce which I'm determined to try to emulate at home. My partner chose, with less difficulty, the 'king prawns with cardamom, fenugreek, mustard, fennel seeds and fresh kumquats', at  £8.25 (the most expensive dish on the menu). Judging by the absorbed look on his face as he, to my disgust, sucked the sauce from the prawn shells and mopped himself up in the finger-bowl, it was a satisfying experience. To my repeated requests for a description of the sauce, all he would say was "it's sort of, well, lovely... really nice". I think I'll find someone a bit more discerning next time. We also shared a buttery, crispy vegetable dish of mange-touts and Eastern spinach ( £4.35), and had a portion of boiled rice each, at  £1.40 per person. The main courses, according to the menu, change whenever possible, depending on availability of fresh ingredients.

The choice of desserts was limited to papaya, mango, passion fruit and ice creams - 'no mixtures'. We ordered one Old English Toffee and one Butter Pecan ice cream, and quarelled over the Butter Pecan, which we both preferred. We could have finished with a choice of Eastern teas, but by the time we had finished our ice creams it was 10.30, and the dining room was almost empty. We settled up (about  £35 in all) and went to round the evening off at the pub.