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AQUAVITAE, 1 Folly Bridge. Tel 247775

Reviewed
Aug 03

Imagine you died. And, despite all your sins, you manage to sidle your way through those pearly gates? Well, you will be disappointed because the catering team have relocated to Aqua Vitae. Aqua Vitae is my new favourite restaurant and despite attempts not to be overly gushing, i can find absolutely nothing to complain about. I arrived with a friend to be seated before a watercolour sunset sky reflected in the river, the live music coiling around you to create your own miniature foodie haven, and lulled by a breeze through the open windows.

We were brought a bowl of bread with a robust olive oil and balsamic vinegar as we mulled over the menu, and we cracked a bottle of their house red to ease us into the evening. The sangiovese I chose was £13 and deliciously drinkable, but by no means the most expensive going. To start we shared the Italian salumeria - a selection of cold meats from Parma ham to salamino cacciatore for £10. I followed this with a fillet of scotch beef, grilled but so rare as to be like butter under the knife sprinkled with sea salt and served with rosemary and balsamic roast new potatoes (£16). My companion opted for a bowl of fresh pappardelle (ribbon pasta) with Tuscany sausage ragout and mushrooms for £10.50. The mixed salad was a refreshing change from the usual drab iceberg-rocket accompaniment served in so many places, stacked with artichokes and tomatoes as well as different kinds of lettuce and drizzled with fresh lemon (£3.50). This place was bordering food-orgasmic - I defy anyone to say this is an overstatement.

Well, one thing led to another, and suddenly we were being seduced by the dessert menu. While the variety of Italian cheeses (pecorino, caciotta, parmegiano, taleggio and gorgonzola dolce latte) was hugely attractive (£7, £11 for 2), I am never one to turn down a chocolate option and could not leave without the tartufo filled with zabaglione. Icy, creamy and ultimately chocolatey, a hit that lasted me at least 24 hours. I knew then that heaven had moved. My friend dived into a slab of tiramisu. It was fantastic. I know because I kept stealing spoonfuls when she was trying to distract me so she could steal some of mine. Desserts are around £6. Coffee afterwards takes the feeling that you have eaten so well that you will never eat again to a new dimension

Later...
well, ok, so I wasn't going to complain, but I found that they made a mistake with my bill, charging me for champagne. I wish. It would have all been fine except that when I called, they were completely unhelpful and so far are refusing to reimburse me. Great night, but check what you pay for,even if you do usually cringe and look away.

Abby Chicken