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Door 74, 74 Cowley Road. Tel 203374.

Reviewed
11/04

Door 74 is the newest eaterie on the Cowley Road, and its simple, chic style is reflective of the types of bars and restaurants that are creeping in to this area with ever increasing regularity.

The atmosphere on a Thursday evening when I dined with a friend was relaxed, and the staff were friendly. There is not a great deal of choice on the menu, as the emphasis seems to be on quality rather than variety - vegetarians, or those who like a great deal of choice, may struggle a little - but both our meals were delicious. We chose to share two different dishes: the burger with chunky salad and onion marmalade (£7.95) and the salmon served with rustic mash and a ricotta and sorrel-based salsa verde (£10.95). We were both very impressed with the food - the burger was the best I have tasted in a long while, and the salmon was fantastic. The bottle of house white we had with it was most palatable and very reasonable at £8.95. My only slight disappointment was that the price of the salmon was a little high for what we got - but neither dish was lacking in quality or flavour.

I would very much recommend giving this café-come-restaurant-come-bar a try; it would be perfect for a romantic meal or a sophisticated supper with the girls.

Nicki Sneath