| Reviewed
Feb 2004 |
Hajduczek is Oxford's first, best, and as yet, only Polish restaurant. Its website claims it to be "the place to bring your loved one, business colleague and friends to impress the delight of Polish cuisine, and meal is not complete without a national drink - Vodka or specialty Mead." Correspondingly, the selection of vodkas is really impressive, ranging from Famous Bison with grass to Orange Kosher, and costs £1.70-£2.50 per shot. But while the food is certainly delightful enough to be shared with loved ones, it must be said that the lighting is certainly not romantic, forcing you to gaze at them fully illuminated by harsh spotlights.
The real reason to venture just past Nando's on the Cowley road is the food, served in generous portions, and quite unlike anything you will find elsewhere in town.
We chose the Specjalnosc Hajduczka (£25.90 for two - comprises a huge platter plus soup) . After a creamy vegetable soup, we were served a huge platter comprising four traditional dishes: The Bigos, or Hunter stew, was described in the menu as "a precious jewel in the treasury of the Polish kitchen", and this sauerkraut and meat jewel was indeed only the first of many.
The Placki (potato pancakes) were perfectly crisp and golden, the Pierogi (ravioli) were large and creamy, and the Golabki (poached cabbage leaf) was full to bursting with mince and rice. Feeling just as stuffed as the Golabki, we soldiered on with dessert. Our gusto was restored when we were presented with poppy seedcake and cheese pancakes (£4.50 each), both garnished with cream, fresh strawberries and grapes. The coffee was also of exceptionally high quality. Overall our spend was approximately £30 a head for the platter, desserts, coffee and a bottle of wine - not dirt cheap, but great value, and I defy anyone not to feel stuffed afterwards!
In wintry weather, Hajduczek's hearty hospitality is a welcome source of warmth. The tinny "Polish" music (sometimes they have live jazz from 8-10pm - call for information) and eclectic décor add to its charm. The overall effect is unpretentious and irresistible. Eat there - you won't be disappointed.
Miranda Kaufmann, 06.02.04
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