Reviewed
Aug 03

Reggae is the theme tune of the night at HiLo's, and everything Jamaican the theme of the whole place. As you enter, you will probably pass the dreadlocked owner in his Bob Marley hat and Jamaica football shirt. On the walls are adverts for rum, Red Stripe Jamaican beer (beer of the gods) and various products of a somewhat more herbal nature. We were invited to find somewhere to sit inside and, as the place is a miniature warren of uneven wood floors, we opted for the nearest seats to hand, a huge farmhouse kitchen table which soon filled up with other diners.

The trademark laid back Caribbean attitude also dominates at HiLos. We ordered at around 8.30 and a good while later, enough time to sink a fair few Red Stripes, our starters arrived. The goat and bean soup wasn't available, so instead I ended up with a patty - a Jamaican spicy pasty that comes filled with chicken, vegetable or fish. Nothing on the menu is priced, but you do get vague indicators; starters are £2 or less, mains are between £7-8, desserts are £1.50 - £3. Unless of course you have a 'big fish' or a Jamaican style steak, which may cost an extra pound. Also unless the owner likes you, in which case you may get a discount. We shared fried plantain as well (a bit like banana and infinitely moreish) and whiled away the time between courses. There was plenty of it, but as long as you aren't rushing anywhere (bad choice of restaurant), let the chilled out atmosphere suffuse you and enjoy it. There is every variety of rum going, or for non-drinkers, a Lilt-like grapefruit drink called Ting. The mains arrived without flourish; you simply get homecooked, filling and tasty food, no pretension or decoration. It looks good enough to eat without them. I had Funky Chicken, chicken in a spicy, crispy coating with the obligatory rice'n'peas. And it was really, really good. My friends both had Jerk Pork, a drier, saltier but equally tasty dish. If these don't appeal, you could try curry goat, ackee and saltfish (the Jamaican national dish) or Caribbean seafish (Red Snapper or Kingfish). Maybe follow it with some sweet potato pudding, ginger cake of the non-McVities kind or soursop ice cream.

HiLo's, being a restaurant, stays open longer than most bars in Cowley, provided that you have food in front of you. Even if you aren't eating a full meal, you can buy sandwiches well into the night and keep on with the flow of rum and Red Stripe to make for a unique end to any evening out.

Abby Chicken