Holywells, 38 Holywell Street, OX1 3SP. Tel. 203536

With a 'Special Occasion' coming up in the calendar, I had to decide which of Oxford's many, many restaurants to book for an enjoyable and memorable meal for two.

I decided to gamble on a new experience, which led me to Holywells. I looked on their website (http://www.holywells.net), and was impressed by the reasonable but adventurous food on offer. So I booked our table for 8.30pm that Saturday evening.

We arrived a little early, and were slightly apprehensive as we realised this large, spacious establishment was practically empty. However the interior is quite stunning, with dimmed lighting, a huge central glasshouse effect and open staging with the restaurant looking down over the bar. The tables are uncovered dark oak, with many set for two; but some for much larger parties: as we were shown to our seats I noticed a group of about 10 sat just behind us.

We ordered a bottle of House White to go with our meal (£11), and were pleased when this was uncorked at the table; something not so often seen in such establishments. We were spoilt for choice with the menu, but chose well; myself ordering the grilled goat's cheese and mixed leaves for starter, and the salad bowl topped with further goat's cheese for the main. My husband opted for the moules for starter, and steak and ale pie for his main, with garlic bread as an extra side dish.

The food was served after just about the perfect amount of time - we didn't feel like we had been waiting forever, and yet, with no desire for the evening to pass by too fast, were not made to feel rushed in any way. The moules arrived in a huge, deep bowl, with a small basket of french bread. They were served in a rich white wine and cream sauce, just light enough to make the whole dish not too overpowering and filling; and the quantity of moules extremely generous - more than enough for someone with a smaller appetite, though my husband managed them perfectly well. My starter was also delicious; the goats cheese grilled just sufficiently to soften and caramelise; the balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing adding the perfect compliment to the richness of the cheese and the pepperiness of the mixed leaves. My only reservation was that a crouton of french bread under the goat's cheese might have perfected this almost winning combination - however, I would be very tempted to order this dish again if we returned to the restaurant.

The mains arrived again after a perfect wait, and were also of a good size, and beautifully presented. The steak and ale pie came in its own oval ramekin, served with generous amounts of vegetables: baby carrots, mange-tout, cauliflower, courgettes and baby corn. The pie itself was apparently excellent, with a beautifully rich sauce to compliment the tender chunks of meat. It was topped with a thin layer of mashed potato, rather than the traditional pastry; but this did not detract from the dish. The garlic bread was also perfectly made. My salad bowl was perfect for what I wanted after my starter; it was indeed a deep bowl of mixed salad (lettuces, tomatoes and cucumber - I had asked for the red onion to be omitted), topped with crumbly, rich chunks of a creamy goat's cheese; I couldn't fault the dish in any way. For those who are not so keen on goat's cheese, many other toppings are also available, and can be chosen singularly, or together to create the dish of your choice.

After the two courses, we decided against having a dessert; though the menu again did sound tempting, with 9 sweets, or cheese, all priced at around £5.

Our total bill came to £37.50 (excluding tip), which I feel was an excellent price for an excellent meal. Most starters are approximately £5-6, which may seem pricey - but the main courses are very well priced; ranging from £5/6 for the salad, to £16 for a steak; and most coming in at around £10.

In summary, we thought that Holywells was an excellent value meal out, in beautiful Oxford surroundings; the entire establishment was smart, sophisticated and beautifully decorated. I am surprised that it was as quiet as we found it (though admittedly, more tables filled up after we had arrived), and can only assume that this is due to a lack of awareness of this highly recommended bar/brasserie.

Alison Hook