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Karma, 152 Oxford Road, OX4 2EA. Tel. 01865 777402

September 2004

So far up the Cowley Road it's actually on the Oxford Road, the Karma Bangladeshi restaurant deserves to be added to the canon of quality East Oxford curry houses. It's a bit different, though; the mood here is stylish and modern, with understated coloured lighting, smooth curves and tasteful wall hangings.

As it's just around the corner from my house, the Karma is at the moment my most frequented curry house, but I would exhort anyone who appreciates spicy, flavoursome food and excellent service to make the trip from the Cowley Road. My most recent trip, on a Sunday evening, confirmed my views.

Feeling pretty hungry, after a couple of poppodoms we moved onto starters. Until I started going to the Karma I never had starters with a curry but these starters are something special. On this occasion we shared a very tasty chicken chat and delicious aloo bora, lightly spiced fried potato fritters (both £2.95). The presentation was excellent; the fritters came with a creamy dip, and there was just the right amount to get the taste buds tingling in anticipation of the main event.

For our main course I had chicken pallock (£6.25), my partner had lamb makhani (£6.75), and we shared a portion of pilau rice (£2.15), a garlic nan (£2.15) and for maximum greediness a side order of bombay aloo (£2.95). Partner normally goes for the spicy dishes, but the creamy lamb makhani, served in a garlic, ginger and coriander sauce, was pronounced good, with the lamb tender and succulent. Both of us have tried the garlic chicken and garlic lamb dishes (£6.75) before, which are also exceptionally flavoursome with a spicy kick (but not so good for fresh breath).

The chicken pallock is something special and fast becoming my all-time favourite dish. It manages to combine my two favourite ingredients, chicken and spinach, but instead of being quite bland, like most chicken sag dishes, it's really quite spicy and has a delicious flavour. The meat wasn't quite as perfect as it has been in the past but I this dish has to be tried, and I don't believe I have seen it on the menu at any other East Oxford restaurant.

The accompaniments were also good, and I had to admit defeat before my plate was emptied. The meal was lubricated with a pint of draught Kingfisher; a glass of dry white wine also slipped down well, and a look at the wine list found it ample.

Though there were few other diners, the restaurant seemed to be doing a busy trade in takeaways, probably helped by the fact that you can park right outside. The service was excellent; the staff were attentive while low-key, and the total cost was £40 including tip for the two of us. The only problem with it is the tendency to hum a certain Boy George tune under the breath while waiting for your food to arrive. Don't miss it.

Claire Lishman, Sept. 2004