Reviewed
Aug 03

Set underneath the Old Bank Hotel, Quod is right in the centre of town, a pseudo-Italian wannabe posh place with plenty of ice-breaking modern art and a glass fronted kitchen. The menu hasn't changed for ages, apart from a daily specials board. Despite all of this, rather than because of it, I find myself there a lot. I'm not entirely sure why, but it happens to a lot of people I know. I think it's because it's handy, sometimes it's because the food is quite good, the square bar in the centre of the restaurant does a pretty mean cocktail and sitting outside on the sun terrace on a warm summery evening strikes me as a brilliant way to kill a few hours and a few bottles of wine. As well as this, the service can be standard (not brilliant) or very friendly (you need to go there a lot).

First off, you get the obligatory warm ciabatta and dipping oil, which is better here than I've had in most other places. While the food is as variable as the menu is predictable, it is invariably satisfactory. I have had the grilled goat cheese starter (£5.25) twice and friends seem to agree that while it is described as being served with baby spinach, sundried tomatoes and toasted walnuts, sometimes you may get two spinach leaves and a sliver of tomato, leaving you to concentrate on the golden brown grilled cheese, and sometimes it will come sitting proudly atop a sea of salad. An obligatory starter at any self-regarding Italian, the bruschetta (£3.95) is nothing more special than most people could make at home, but tasty nonetheless. The pizza buffalina (£8.45) is the kind of pizza you can eat, really enjoy and still feel as if you've eaten something healthy at the same time (it is topped with bright green rocket and fresh cherry tomatoes). I particularly like the tortelli (£8.95) - pasta stuffed with spinach and ricotta and smothered in a red pepper sauce. Risotto funghi is, I am told, great, as is gnocchi with gorgonzola and spinach, so there are a couple of more imaginative options for vegetarians, but choice is limited.

One thing to avoid is the burger. This is an Italianesque restaurant, but still they feel the urge to put burgers (£8.15) on the menu and I think they make the mistake of trying to chargrill the bun as well as the meat; it usually tastes more of carbon than of flame grilled barbecue. Pasta dishes cost around £8.95. The meat and fish mains are generally very good, seared tuna steak is cooked to order and served with fresh French beans and buttery new potatoes (£12.95). Dessert brings an array of more typically Italianesque offerings - tiramisu or panna cotta, all for about £4.65. If you don't want food, go for a few cocktails or a bottle of Merlot (£13.25). It's not gastronomically exciting, but you will leave quite contented having had a fairly good meal, no complaints.

Abby Chicken