June 04

 

 

 

June 01

NB The review below refers to the restaurant's Oxford mooring and route, to which it will not be returning until June 05 approx.

It is currently located at: Tooley's, Banbury Museum, Spiceball Park Road, Banbury, Oxon. OX16 2PQ

All descriptions of the quality of the food still apply.

Dinner on Rosamund the Fair is one of the most sublime experiences Oxford has to offer, for two reasons: the first is the exemplary quality of the cooking; the second is that Rosamund the Fair is a narrowboat. Moored at the Castlemill Boatyard in Jericho, for three hours every night Rosamund gently navigates her diners along the Isis and the canal, past Folly Bridge and the University boat houses, and back again to Port Meadow in time for sunset. The beauty of this journey is quite staggering, especially the congregation of swans at Port Meadow under moonlight. Bad sailors might not relish the prospect of eating while chugging around the waterways of Oxford, but the stillness of the waters and the solid immovability of the barge allay any concerns. About 20 people can be accommodated per night. The little kitchen is visible toward the back and one waiter provides prompt, good-humoured and attentive service to all the diners.
A trip on Rosamund the Fair is an evening out, not just dinner: the whole experience lasts a good 3 hours. On arriving at the boat, we were presented with a plate of amuse-gueule and a little later freshly baked bread. There are quite long gaps between courses- all the food is freshly prepared, and there is only one chef and a helper in the little kitchen. Still, the time passes extremely pleasantly enjoying the well-chosen wine list or taking the air on the deck, and admiring the view.
The menu offers two options per course. On our visit, one could enjoy fresh local asparagus with hollandaise sauce or salmon mousse for starters. Both were simple, fresh and good. The theme of good, fresh ingredients, very well prepared continued with the main course: juicy, firm sea bass with a red wine jus, or rack of lamb. Vegetarians must warn the chef in advance, but are imaginatively catered for: on our visit, they were offered a main course of courgettes (both yellow and green!) stuffed with wild rice and served with a sumptuously rich wild mushroom sauce.
Pudding was spectacular. I don't think that I shall ever come across anything quite as satisfying, to the eye as well as to the mouth, as the swan profiteroles: a huge confection of crisp, light choux pastry, with the long neck and full body of the swan, on a swirling mass of warm chocolate sauce, this was a pudding in a league of its own.
The delightful novelty of dinner aboard Rosamund the Fair make it an ideal choice for special occasions - indeed, the price (it isn't cheap) would prohibit most from enjoying it more frequently. Both long-term Oxford inhabitants and visitors should make absolutely sure, however, that they sample the pleasures of Rosamund the Fair at least once.

Sarah Montgomery.

Set dinner £52 per head, Including VAT and a 3 hour cruise £56 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday Special rates are available for parties.